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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.